PORTO, PORTUGAL

Description: A backsplash of multi-colored buildings, Porto’s varying elevations and position on the Douro river make it an undeniably beautiful setting. But it’s the culture and people that guarantees a good time on this long weekend (incredible seafood and port are added bonuses).

Destinations:

Day 1 - Porto

Day 2 - Porto (part II)

Day 3 - Pinhão, Douro River

Where to stay: This Airbnb is compact but efficient, with a loft bedroom and combined kitchen + living room. It's well-located to all the sites in this itinerary and the hosts are very responsive.

When to go: All year round. We visited in late April.

THE ITINERARY:

THE DETAILS:

DAY 1

Porto

Our itinerary below includes a self-guided walking tour that is a great way to see and experience Porto. However, if you are someone who needs to deeply UNDERSTAND Porto, we highly recommend this Sandeman's free (tip-based) walking tour, as a way to get to learn more about the history, and to get to know Porto on a more personal level.

1. Head to Molete Bread & Breakfast this morning for a traditional pastel de nata — the infamous Portuguese speciality pastry and indulgence that is the perfect start to your holiday.

2. To get a feel for Porto, start your self-guided walking tour on the north end of the late 19th-century Ponte de Dom Luís I. Take some photos from the startlingly high upper deck, but don't cross yet (as you'll be doing this MANY times over the next 3 days). Then, make your way west towards the towering gothic Porto Cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. Afterwards, wind your way down through the maze of picturesque alleys and stop in Ribeira Square, the medieval marketplace, which is now home to many cafes, restaurants and bars, and is a wonderful spot for people-watching. Head up the hill again, stopping to admire the exteriors of the Monument Church Of St Francis (gorgeous baroque-style interiors and interesting catacombs below) and the neoclassical Bolsa Palace, (the Hall of Nations is spectacular) along the way. Take the stairs up to Miradouro da Vitória for some fantastic views of the city. Circle back east towards Sao Bento Station and, finally, the Igreja de Santo Ildefonso — both beautiful examples of traditional blue and white azulejo tiles, that became very popular in the 15th century, and spark this trend that continues to embellish many-a-facade of Porto to this day.

3. With the hard work out of the way, make your way to the south side of town to eat, drink and be merry. Head to the super hip Mercado Beira-Rio, for all different kinds of cuisine, and fun vibes (we recommend daTerra for their all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet).

4. With food out of the way, now it's time to taste some Port. At Vinhos Quinta do Noval, you can't beat the knowledgable staff, the atmosphere and the prices. We recommend sitting outside — it's a great place to interact with other tasters or to simply relax and enjoy your 10 yr old tawny. The tasting menu is extensive and It is well worth a visit.

5. Just next door, Espaço Porto Cruz has an awesome rooftop bar, where Port-based cocktails are served. It's a great place to do a tasting, or simply pass a few hours sipping cocktails and admiring the views.

6. To stretch your legs between meals, head back up the hill to Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, a monastery dating back to the 16th century. The view overlooking the bridge and the northern riverbank is worth the extra steps.

7. End your evening on the water, at Uva by Cálem, where the sunsets are magical and the seafood is incredibly fresh.

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DAY 2

Porto (part II)

One could easily spend another full day exploring the tiled alleys of the old town. This is a great day to circle back and revisit some of the sites from the previous day that you want to see more of. However, on a nice day in good weather, we recommend getting out of the city center, to experience some of the stunning natural beauty that surrounds Porto.

1. Your first stop is Serralves, a unique park on the outskirts of Porto. There are multiple museums in the park, and purchasing a combined ticket to all three is the same price as the individuals. If you happen to visit on the first Sunday of the month, entrance to the park and museums is free until 1pm.

2. A morning stroll through Serralves transports you into the forest, with wonderful sculptures, a Treetop walk and beautiful landscapes. We recommend heading straight to the cafe after entry (grab yourself a latte and a pastry), then winding your way north through the park (back towards the exit, stopping along the way). Explore Casa de Serralves for it's art-deco-styled architecture and interiors, and the well-curated rotating exhibitions of modern and contemporary artworks.

3. Post-park, make your way to the beach! Porto has a lively coastline, that's dotted cafes and bars and packed with locals on a sunny day. We took the 203 bus, which google believes runs every 20 minutes. We found the bus system in Porto less-than-reliable, and had nothing but good experiences with Uber.

4. Pop off at the chic Lapa Lapa for some for Moqueca, a traditional Brazilian fish stew, the perfect compliment to your seaside view.

5. Make your way to Praia da Luz for a post-lunch spritzer (...or two or three?).

6. Continue south, beach hopping along the coast on your way. A nice park for a late afternoon snooze, or sunset viewing, is the Jardim do Passeio Alegre.

7. Bus or Uber back to the old town.

8. When you're hungry for dinner, A Tasquinha Dos Guindais is a casual tavern with incredible food and tables haphazardly placed along a large staircase that leads to the lower deck of the Ponte Luís I. It's a fun spot to observe the locals and to watch the chefs work, as the local sardines are grilled right there on the steps across from your table. The tomato & onion salad, is the best simple salad we have ever had. Finish your meal with a night cap of, you guessed it... Port!

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DAY 3

Pinhão, Douro River

Douro Valley really is a must-see for anyone who appreciates breathtaking scenery and, of course, loves wine. There are many ways to enjoy this area — you can absolutely rent a car or join a tour group (we recommend this airbnb experience for those who just want to sit back, relax and enjoy) but for those who don't mind a scenic (albeit somewhat long) train-ride, we think it's a convenient and lovely way to experience the area.

1. Set off a few minutes early to São Bento Station, so there's time to stock up on some snacks for your journey, and enjoy a latte & tasty treat. Purchase train tickets from a human in the ticket booth inside the station. You should purchase a roundtrip ticket, between Porto and Pinhão. The direct trains only run a few times a day, we suggest taking the ~9AM outbound, and ~6PM return.

2. As the train to Pinhão is 2hrs and 20 minutes long, it's a good idea to bring a book for the first half of your journey. For the second half, make sure to sit on the right side of the train, for absolutely stunning views of the Douro Valley. make sure to do the same when you leave the Douro Valley, as the sun will be setting and the lighting is perfect for photos.

3. Once you arrive in Pinhão — head to the delightful ÓPorco, a small Tapas restaurant that serves up incredible charcuterie and a solid selection of wines.

4. After lunch, walk across the bridge to Quinta das Carvalhas for an excellent overview of the regions' best tastes. The staff is lovely and knowledgable, and the views are spectacular.

5. In the afternoon, a boat cruise on the Douro is a lovely way to spend an hour or two — however, it can feel quite touristy. If you're looking for something more adventurous, we found this standup paddle board tour a much more unique and exciting way to admire your surroundings.

6. Head back on the evening train to Porto, riding on the left side as you leave!

7. Once back, celebrate the end to your long weekend with a late-night favorite, the cachorrinho sandwich at Gazela.

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